THE
RICH TASTE OF TURKEY
 A
survey of types of dishes according to their ingredients may
be helpful to explain the basic structure of the Turkish Cuisine.
Otherwise it may appear to have an overwhelming variety of
dishes,
each with a unique combination of ingredients, way of preparation
and presentation. All dishes can be conveniently categorized
into: grain-based, grilled meats, vegetables, fish and sea
food,
desserts and beverages. Before describing each of these categories,
some general comments are necessary. The foundation of the
Cuisine
is based on grains (rice and wheat) and vegetables. Each category
of dishes contains only one or two types of main ingredients.Turks
are purists in their culinary taste; the dishes are supposed
to bring out the flavour of the main ingredient rather than
hiding it behind sauces or spices. Thus, the eggplant should
taste like eggplant, lamb like lamb, pumpkin like pumpkin.
Contrary
to the prevalent Western impression of Turkish food, spices
and herbs are used very sparingly and singularly. For example,
either mint or dill weed are used with zucchini, parsley with
eggplant, a few cloves of garlic has its place in some cold
vegetable dishes, cumin is sprinkled over red lentil soup or
mixed in ground meat when making "köfte." Lemon
and yogurt are used to complement both meat and vegetable dishes,
to balance the taste of olive oil or meat. Most desserts and
fruit dishes do not call for any spices. So their flavors are
refined and subtle.
There
are major classes of meatless dishes. When meat is used, it
is used sparingly Even with the meat kebabs, the "pide"
or the flat bread occupies the largest part of the portion along
with vegetables or yogurt. The Turkish Cuisine also boasts a
variety of authentic contributions in the desserts and beverage
categories. For the Turks, the setting is as important as the
food itself. Therefore, food-related places need to be surveyed,
as well as the dishes and the eating-protocol. Among the "great
good places" where you can find the ingredients for the
Cuisine, are the weekly neighborhood markets "pazar",
and the permanent markets. The most famous one of the latter
type is the Spice Market in Istanbul. This is a place where
every conceivable type of food item can be found, as it has
always been since pre-Ottoman times. This is a truly exotic
place, with hundreds of scents rising from stalls located within
an ancient domed building, which was the terminal for the Spice
Road. More modest markets can be found in every city center,
with permanent stalls of fish and vegetables.
The weekly markets are where
sleepy neighborhoods come to life, with the villagers setting
up their stalls before dawn at a designated area, to sell their
products. On these days, handicrafts, textiles, glassware and
other household items are also among the displays at the most
affordable prices. What makes these places unique is the cacophony
of sights, smells, sounds and activity, as well as the high
quality of fresh food, which can only be obtained in the “Pazar”.
There is a lot of haggling and jostling, as people make their
way through the narrow isles while the vendors compete for attention.
One way to purify body and soul would be to rent an inexpensive
flat by the seaside for a month every year, and live on fresh
fruit and vegetables from the “Pazar”. However,
since the more likely scenario will be restaurant-hopping,
here
are some tips to learn the proper terminology so that you can
navigate through both, the Cuisine (just in case you get the
urge to cook a la Turca), and the streets of Turkish cities,
where it is just as important to locate the eating places as
the museums and the archaeological wonders.
GRILLED
MEATS "KEBABS" 
"Kebabs" is another category of food which, like the
"börek", is typically Turkish dating back to
the times when the nomadic Turks learned to grill and roast
their meat over their camp fires. Given the numerous types
of
kebabs, it helps to realize that you categorize them by the
way the meat is cooked.
The Western World knows
the "sis kebab" and the "Döner" introduced
to them mostly by Greek entrepreneurs, who have a good nose
for what will sell! sis kebab is grilled cubes of skewered meat.
“Döner kebab” is made by stacking alternating
layers of ground meat and sliced leg of lamb on a large upright
skewer, which is slowly rotated in front of a vertical grills.
As the outer layer of the meat is roasted, thin slices are
shaved
to be served
There are numerous other
grilled kebabs beside those cooked in a clay oven. It should
be noted that the unique taste of kebabs are due more to the
breeds of sheep and cattle, which are raised in open pastures
by loving shepherds, than to special marinades and a way of
cooking. Therefore, you should stop at a kebab restaurant in
Turkey to taste the authentic item.
GRAINS
- "BREAD TO BöREK" 
The foundation of Turkish food is, if anything, the dough made
of wheat flour. Besides "Ekmek" - the ordinary white
bread, "Pide" - flat bread, "Simit" - sesame
seed rings, and "Manti" - dumplings, a whole family
of food, called "Börek," made up of thin sheets
of pastry falls into this category. There is one food without
which no meal is complete, in Turkey at any rate. That is bread,
a food we know so well yet never tire of. Bread is delicious
all by itself when it comes steaming hot and crusty from the
oven, and comes in innumerable varieties. We all have our favourites.
Bread is the symbol of all food, as demonstrated by the saying
to earn one’s daily bread, and held sacred as a source
of life and gift of God.
We thank God for our daily
bread, but also say in Turkish that "bread is in the lion’s
mouth" meaning that to earn a living involves a struggle.
Oaths can be sworn over bread and wasting it or letting it
be
trodden underfoot is a sin. Over most of the world bread is
a staple food, its shape, method of preparation, and the cereal
grains it contains varying widely from country to country and
region to region.
"Börek" is
a special-occasion food which requires great skill and patience,
unless you have thin sheets of dough already rolled out from
your corner grocery store. Anyone who can accomplish this delicate
task using the rolling pin becomes the most sought-out person
in their circle of family and friends. The sheets are then layered
or folded into various shapes before being filled with cheese
or meat mixes and baked or fried. Every household enjoys at
least five different varieties of börek as a regular part
of its menu.
“Manti"
dumplings of dough filled with a special meat mix, are eaten with
generous servings of garlic “yogurt” and a dash of
melted butter with paprika. This is a meal in itself as a Sunday
lunch affair for the whole family to be followed by an afternoon
nap.Along with bread, "pilav"
is another staple in the Turkish kitchen. The most common versions
are the cracked-wheat pilaf and the rice pilaf. A good cracked-wheat
pilaf made with whole onions, sliced tomatoes, green peppers sautéed
in butter, and boiled in beef stock is a meal in itself. Many
versions of the rice pilaf accompany vegetable and meat dishes
Wheat is the only cereal
containing sufficient gluten to rise significantly and give
a spongy consistency. To a much lesser extent rye has the ability
to form a leavened bread, but other grains like maize, barley,
and millet can only be used to form flat cakes rather than bread
proper unless mixed with a high proportion of wheat flour.Wheat
bread made with wheat flour, yeast and water contains 35% water,
53% starch, 8% protein, and 1.4% fat, and each 100 g contains
240 calories. In addition bread contains significant quantities
of B and B2 vitamins, niacin and iron. In all bread is a valuable
foodstuff in its own right.Kneading is an important part of
bread making since it ensures that the yeast is evenly distributed.
The dough is then left in a warm place to rise, a process by
which the yeast liberates carbon dioxide gas. The bubbles of
gas are prevented from escaping by the elastic gluten in the
flour. Rising may take anything up to 4 hours. The dough is
then divided and shaped into loaves and left to rise for a second
time. Just before going into the oven cuts are made with a
knife in the top, and it is baked at temperatures of 230-280 degrees
Centigrade. Bread made by this classical kneading method has
more flavour. The bread was first made twelve thousand years
ago by mixing coarsely ground grain with water and baking it
on hot stones in hot ashes. Yeast, which is a microscopic fungus,
was discovered after dough was affected by the fungus by accident,
and its favorable effect on the bread observed. Although most
Turkish bread is made of wheat flour, some regions also use
barley, rye, or in the Black Sea region maize flour. Roughly
speaking Turkish breads fall into three categories: very thin
rolled sheets known as "yufka", flat leavened breads
such as "pide", and loaves known as "somun".
"Yufka", the most usual type of bread among nomadic
communities, is cooked on a griddle and then dried, in which
state it will keep for a long time. "Pide" is cooked
in an oven. Shaped into flat circles or ovals it may be sprinkled
with sesame seeds or black cumin, and brushed with beaten egg.
In the month of “Ramazan” the evening meal is not
complete without “pide”, and queues form outside
the bakeries as the hour of breaking fast approaches.
The round loaves known as “somun” used to be made
of flour with a high bran content, usually by public bakeries.
Their equivalent in most Turkish cities today is known as francala,
and made of highly refined white flour.
KEBABCI
"Kebabci" is by far the most common and the least
expensive type of restaurant, ranging from a hole in the wall
to large and lavish establishments. Kebab is the traditional
Turkish response to fast food that is at the same time not especially
bad for you. A generic kebabci will have "Lahmacun"
(Turkish pizza) and "Adana" (spicy scewered ground
meat, named after the southern city where it was born), salad
greens with red onions and baklava to top it all off. Beyond
that the menu will tell you the speciality of the kebabci. The
best plan is to seek out the well-known ones and to try the
less spicy types if you are not used to kebab. Once you develop
a taste for it, you can have inexpensive feasts by going to
the neighborhood kebabci anywhere in Izmir, Ankara or Istanbul.
"Izgara"- mixed grilled meat, it is how main course
meat dishes are prepared at a meat restaurant. Mixed grills
are likely to include lamb chops, "Köfte," or
"Sis" (select cubes of meat). The way of preparing
ground meat will be the "Köfte."
These are grilled, fried,
oven-cooked or boiled, after being mixed with special spices,
eggs, and grated onions and carefully shaped into balls, oblongs,
round or long patties. Another popular dish, inspired by the
nomadic Turks who carried spiced, raw meat in their saddles,
and known to Europeans as "Steak Tartar", is the raw
“köfte”. Here, it is made of raw double ground
meat, by kneading it with thin bulgur and hot spices vigorously
for a few hours. Then bite-sized patties are made, and served
with parsley, known for its stomach-protecting qualities. Some
restaurants specialize only in grilled meats, in which case
they are called meat restaurants. The fare will be a constant
stream of grilled meats served hot in portions off the grill,
until you tell the waiter that you are full.
KARNIYARIK(VEGETABLES)
Along with grains, vegetables are also consumed in large quantities
in the Turkish diet. The simplest and most basic type of vegetable
dish is prepared by slicing a main vegetable such as zucchini
or eggplant, combining it with tomatoes, green peppers and
onions,
and cooking it slowly in butter and its own juices. Since the
vegetables that are cultivated in Turkey are truly delicious,
a simple dish like this, eaten with a sizeable chunk of fresh
bread, is a satisfying meal for many people. A whole class
of
vegetables is cooked in olive oil. These dishes would be third
in a five-course meal, following the soup and a main course
such as rice or börek and vegetable / meat, and before
dessert and fruit. Practically all vegetables, such as fresh
string-beans, artichokes, root celery eggplants, pinto beans,
or zucchini can be cooked in olive oil, and are typically eaten
at room-temperature. So they are a staple part of the menu
with
variations depending on the season. Then there are the fried
vegetables, such as eggplant, peppers or zucchinis that are
eaten with a tomato or a yogurt sauce.
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